Roots of the Borderlands In China’s far north, family histories reveal deep cultural ties. Many locals, like one man’s grandparents, trace their r
Roots of the Borderlands
In China’s far north, family histories reveal deep cultural ties. Many locals, like one man’s grandparents, trace their roots to Hebei or Shandong. Over 100 years ago, they migrated during the “Chuǎng Guāndōng” era. Meanwhile, intermarriage with Russians was common near the border. Thus, some residents speak Northeast Chinese dialect but have Russian features. This mix shapes the unique identity of the region.
A New Adventure Begins
Greetings from Mohe, China’s northernmost city! My journey takes a fresh turn today. I’ve picked up my scooter, making travel easier. Public transport here is slow. For instance, the 600-kilometer trip from Heihe to Mohe took two days. Only slow “green trains” run, no high-speed rail. Thus, my scooter offers freedom to explore.
Challenges of the Road
My scooter is ready, but parts are missing. I lost a side mirror and windscreen components. This morning, I bought a new mirror. However, the windscreen can’t be fixed yet. Public transport struggles in this region. Moreover, the lack of high-speed rail is noticeable. Locals say low population density makes it uneconomical.
Why No High-Speed Rail?
The Greater Khingan Range, as big as Austria, has only 300,000 people. Building high-speed rail is costly here. Additionally, Mohe’s subarctic climate, like Siberia’s, brings eight-month winters. Temperatures drop to minus 40°C, sometimes minus 58°C. Consequently, permafrost and unstable terrain damage roads and railways.
Autumn’s Golden Beauty
It’s mid-September, and Mohe’s autumn is stunning. Golden leaves blanket the forests. The season is short but vibrant. By November, snow and minus 20°C arrive. Riding a scooter then is impossible. Fortunately, I caught autumn’s tail. Thus, the golden landscape feels like a gift.
Arriving at Beihong Village
I rode to Beihong Village, China’s northernmost village. It sits by the Heilongjiang (Amur) River, facing Russia. With about 100 households, everyone knows each other. They share news, like fresh fish catches, via WeChat. This tight-knit community reflects rural China’s warmth and connectivity.
Staying in a Local Guesthouse
At a Beihong guesthouse, I chose a heated kang bed. The host, of Russian-Chinese descent, speaks Northeast dialect. His relatives live across the river in Russia’s Amur Region. Meanwhile, guests enjoy fresh garden vegetables. The hosts cook Northeast dishes, like stewed pork and cabbage, showcasing local hospitality.
Northeast Culinary Delights
The guesthouse dinner is a feast. Dishes include chicken with mushrooms, fish, and pork with vermicelli. The hosts burn coal to heat the kang and cook. Moreover, the communal meal feels warm and cozy. Watching them cook fresh ingredients is a highlight. This reflects China’s love for shared meals.
Exploring the Forest
Riding through golden forests, I met other motorcyclists. We stopped to hunt mushrooms in the woods. Pine-scented air and cranberries added to the adventure. However, we were unsure which mushrooms were safe. Despite bugs nibbling some, we collected a bagful. The forest felt like a treasure hunt.
Celebrating Mid-Autumn Festival
We reached Shiwei at dusk, ready for Northeast iron pot stew. The restaurant confirmed some mushrooms were edible but advised caution. The stew, with chicken, cabbage, and corn pancakes, was hearty. As it’s Mid-Autumn Festival, we shared mooncakes. Thus, the meal became a festive celebration.
Join the Northern Adventure
Inspired by Beihong’s charm? Explore more at allwinchina.org/portfolio or share your thoughts on X with #BeihongJourney. Contact us at adventure@allwinchina.org to suggest ideas or join the discussion. This journey, updated at 7:05 AM PDT, September 3, 2025, grows with your input. What part of China’s north excites you? Share below and let’s connect!
Autumn in Northeast China’s Border Region
Author: Little Chinese Everywhere
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